Buyer's Guide

The following information serves as a basic guide to help customers with their remodel. Please consult with a professional for more complex projects.


Bathroom Vanity Cabinets

Things to Consider:

  1. Width x Depth x Height. Measure twice, buy once.
  2. Plumbing location. Customers often pick out a cabinet without realizing the drawers are in the way of the plumbing.
  3. Take notes and photos of the existing vanity you wish to change. Small details add up and help tremendously. Remember, it starts with you. No sales person can provide accurate solutions to inaccurate info.
  4. Check if there's flooring under the old cabinet after it's been pulled out. If there is → you may essentially pick any vanity style without having to worry about missing flooring underneath it. If there isn't → you may want to finish that area for convenience sake. It allows you more cabinet options such as furniture style (where you can see the flooring under the cabinet) or floating wall mount type. If you do not wish to cover the missing flooring, you'll want a cabinet with a recessed kickplate (aka toe kick). Normally, the depth from the bottom back to the bottom front of the cabinet will be 18" - 18.5", which will cover the existing area (in most cases). 
Recessed Toe Kick

    Vanity Countertops

    Things to Consider:

    1. You cannot assume that a standard sized vanity top will always be compatible with a standard sized cabinet. Consider where the sink(s) are positioned and if there are any drawers that will be in the way of that sink.
    2. Use silicone to seal the seams — between the countertop and backsplash & sidesplash. Also, around the perimeter of the backsplash & sidepslash. *Only applicable to vanity tops with a separate backsplash & sidesplash.
    3. Custom sized counters take several weeks or months to complete depending on the availability of the material. You'd normally purchase a slab of material and pay a fabricator to custom cut it for you.
    4. Faucet holes drilled on the countertop come in 3 variations: Single Hole, 4" Centerset (three holes closer together) , and 8" Widespread (three holes spread apart). Make sure to have the appropriate faucet.


     Freestanding Bathtubs

    Things to Consider:

    1. Freestanding tubs typically have ample space underneath if you want to add insulation. It keeps the temperature stable just a little longer than without insulation.
    2. It's common for freestanding tubs to come with their own plastic flexible drainage hose. The purpose is to offer convenience to customers when the drain opening on the floor does not align to the tub's drain assembly. However, we prefer customers use pvc pipes as they're a lot sturdier.
    3. There are adjustable levelers attached to the metal structure under the tub. Level them accordingly to allow the tub to sit flat on your floor. Silicone the perimeter of the tub as well as the bottom lip that makes contact with the floor.

    Shower Doors

    Things to Consider:

    1. Measure your space opening after it is finished, whether with tile or another material. This will help you determine the correct shower door size. It's highly recommended to have wood studs behind the walls where you expect the shower rails to be installed. Otherwise, the shower door will not hold up well long-term.
    2. Most shower doors are reversible, which means it can open from the left or right side.
    3. Shower doors are designed to deflect, not retain water. The included rubber strips do a great job at keeping water in, however, do not be alarmed when teeny tiny droplets escape. You may want to consider how your shower door opens relative to the shower head's position and trajectory.